If there is one constant in boat ownership, it has to be sanding. In the past 3 weeks, I have bought:
- a 4-1/2" angle grinder and sanding discs for it
- a 5" random orbital palm sander
- an electric (non-cordless) drill with a myriad of wire and nylon brush bits.
- multiple "job-packs" of sanding discs
- a valu-pack of dust masks
At this point, my hull is nearly ready for launch. I have patched two holes, filled and faired my keel and applied Interprotect epoxy barrier to those areas. Yesterday (June 4th) my plan was to give the bottom a quick sanding all over and then start applying the VC17m bottom paint. Unfortunately, my sanding uncovered a poorly filled void about the size of a dime. I couldn't leave well enough alone so I had to get to the bottom of the void literally. I switched to a heavier grit sanding disc and went to town on the patch. It turned out to be just a little void that only went one layer of glass deep. The total patch was about the size of a slice of tomato fit for a burger. By this point in time, epoxy work has become rather easy so 20 minutes later, the area was cleaned, brushed with un-thickened epoxy, glassed and coated with some colloidal silca thickened epoxy and faired. Today I intend to hose down the hull and give it a good wash after all that sanding yesterday, then sand the latest patch and fill with the last of my fairing compound. I won't have time to sand that since I am using the slow-cure hardener, but I should have some time left to start on the bottom painting. I really can't wait to get the VC17 on the patches. Then they will become invisible and the repairs will be complete.
Of course, one of the repairs was for the raw water intake. On that front, I have received some hardware. Specifically:
- a 3/4" bronze mushroom head through hull fitting
- a 3/4" full-flow bronze NPS-NPT flange adapter
- a 3/4" full-flow bronze ball valve
- a 3/4" full-flow bronze 90 degree hose adapter
In order to install the through hull flange adapter, I will need to drill a hole in my brand new patch. Actually, 4 holes. One for the through hull fitting and 3 for the through bolts to hold it in place.
On the inside of the water intake patch, I had to prepare the surface for the adapter. For this, I added 5 layers of biaxial roving and mat. This is pretty thick stuff. And then after that had cured, I place a blob of peanut-butter thickened epoxy and spread it around. I then pressed in place a square of cardboard covered with packing tape as a release membrane. I place a heavy weight on top of it (the flange adapter with ball valve and hose bard assembly) and let that cure. A day later, the cardboard came off easily and left a mirror smooth surface for the flange adapter.
And now, on to the prop shaft through hull.
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