Spring 2015 Projects

Spring projects, 2015

So, at the risk of eternal optimism, here is a quick list of my projects for the spring of 2015.

Integrate an embedded wifi router into Fugu.

The VoCore is a very small (and very inexpensive), 25mm x 25mm router that runs OpenWRT (an embedded linux, specialized in wifi routers).  It is a standard Linux distribution, however and allows one to build all manner of existing software to it.  I already have a Brookhouse iMux, however it only support one wifi device and only runs in Ad Hoc network mode.  It is intended as a wifi cable replacement  The OpenWRT-based Vocore runs a full wifi router suite, with DHCP addressing, NAT, etc.  The VoCore does use nearly 1W of power compared to 0.2W for the brookhouse, but on a 5000Whr pack, this is negligible.  Especially on a day-sailor / weekender.  Here is what the VoCore will do for me.

Add K-Plex to VoCore

One of the tools I am adding to the VoCore is K-Plex, an NMEA routing package.  In other words, this little router will distribute NMEA data to any device connected to the VoCore wifi network.  In short, my iPhone, iPad, navigation laptop and any other wifi-equipped device my crew brings aboard, simultaneously.

Connect battery SoC data to VoCore

The VoCore also has an available USB port.  To this I am connecting my EV-Display battery state of charge meter from CleanPowerAuto.  The EV-Display outputs a fixed-format character string each second that includes a lot of information about the battery pack, such as voltage, temperature, amps, estimated amp-hours remaining, etc.  I can write a parser for this information on the VoCore that will allow three things:

1. Create NMEA strings using the XDR sentence for things such as voltage and current.  The hope is that these could then be sent through K-Plex to be displayed on a laptop or iPhone and become part of a general boat data distribution system.
2. Create a series of web pages that can be accessed by any client connected to the VoCore network.
3. Push this information to a server I control on the Internet.  This will allow me to check battery status remotely.

 Repackage the lithium battery pack

At the moment,  Fugu's propulsion battery is arranged in two columns of 8 cells, which are actually groups of 4 cells strapped together and strapped to a supporting plank.  This was so that I could easily (relatively easily) place the cells in the boat or remove them for winter storage.  After one season, I have come to the conclusion that I would rather have a single consolidated battery pack.  I am going to build a box out of 3/16" marine plywood and a 1/4" lexan top.  The cells will be in a 3-wide (3x 142mm) by 6-long (6x 61mm) arrangement.  Being a 16-cell pack, that will result in 2 5-cell columns and one 6-cell column.  The extra space of the two non-existent cells will be filled with the following:

• the 225A Class-T fuse, required to be within 7" of any source of power
• The EV-Display battery monitor
• The miniBMS.

Hoisting the pack in and out will require some engineering.  I will build a gantry-jig from some pocket-door track and cars, as well as some small pulleys (4:1 reduction) and line.  With this, I can lift the ~130lb pack in or out of the engine bay by myself.  To get it in or out of the boat, I can use the boom and main sheet block and tackle.  Failing that, two people could handle it easily enough.  Either way, this would be best done at the dock and not with the boat out of the water, in her cradle.

Running and nav lights

In 2013, I completely re-rigged and re-wired my mast.  However, since my electrical system was not yet installed, I never got around to filling the old through-deck holes and drilling the 5 (FIVE!) new through-deck fittings for the re-wired mast.  This must be done this year.  At the same time, the wires for my red/green running lights corroded through at the end of last season.  So these wires must be replaced.  It will be an uncomfortable install since the wires are run through the pulpit tubing, into a junction box in the anchor locker (?!) and then along the underside of the deck of the boat back to the main panel at the nav desk.
A number of years ago, I also acquired a new LED stern light.  this needs to be installed, and why not, rewired as well.

Install the pressure water pump

I divesting myself of all things diesel, I traded a Racor fuel filter for a pressure water pump.  I really ought to install this for this season.  That will also require that I reinstall my 90L flexible water tank and new hose to my galley and head sinks.  I will also have to install a pressure faucet in the boat. I will keep the foot pump, but I may switch it to raw-water.  Who knows.

It's here! It's here!

After nearly 12 weeks of waiting, my depth/speed/temperature sensor has arrived!
The box contains:
- 1 bronze through-hull
- 1 plastic filler plug
- 1 tri-sensor module with 10m cable terminated with a 7-pin Furuno plug.

I ordered the Furuno 235DST-MSE which is the Airmar DST800 as sold by Furuno. Airmar has the wiring diagram online here:
http://airmartechnology.com/uploads/wiringdiagrams/91_592.pdf

I spoke with Airmar who assured me that even should I cut the Furuno end off and wire it directly to an NMEA listener device, they will still warrant their product. Try that in the world of IT!

And, I measured against the existing knot-meter through-hull hole and I will need to slightly enlarge the hole in the fiberglass to fit this new sensor. I prefer that to having to patch up the old hole completely. There was even an article in the latest issue of "Good Old Boat" that deals with exactly how to enlarge a hole in your hull. Here is my plug for them. It's an amazing magazine. Go out an buy a copy now. Heck, buy two.

Unfortunately, I cannot remove the old depth sounder since it is inconveniently located right over the forward cross-bar of the cradle and does not allow enough clearance to drop the old transducer. The yard has agreed to leave me hanging in the slings overnight the day before they launch me so I will have a marathon of installation to do that evening:
- remove the old depth transducer
- enlarge the hole to 2" (51mm for you metric types)
- clean up the hole
- install the new through hull with lots of sealant, make sure it is properly oriented.
- insert the plastic plug for launch

On top of all this, I have a raw water intake for my engine to re-bed. In that case, the through-hull is installed on a wooden pad that would appear to be completely oil saturated. To top things off, the collar for the through-hull is not a hex-nut but rather a round disk with 4 notches every 90 degrees -- picture an iron cross. They look to be about 5mm wide, big enough to put a flat-head screwdriver in there. I don't have this kind of tool so my two options are as follows:
- get a screwdriver in there and hit with a hammer tangential to the collar in an effort to rotate the collar.
- I should be able to fit the tips of a 1" crescent wrench held vertically in two notches opposite each other and then use some vice-grip pliers on the handle of the crescent wrench to turn the collar.

Keep in mind that nothing on a boat is flat and no two surfaces will meet at a right angle. OH, and the line that is used as the "origin" doesn't actually exist. It is on an invisible plane that goes through the centerline of the boat. Makes for lots of certainty when doing measurements!

Baby steps... baby steps....